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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.